View source for Tracker battery replacement

The batteries inside a (2.0) tracker can be replaced. Bad news: It's a weird 3.85v battery, and there's no space inside the tracker to actually use a larger one so you're still basically stuck with a fresh replacement rather than upgrade.

good news: these batteries are available and aren't expensive. 

Model: B2PYV100

What to look out for: chinky batteries aren't worth the $10 you save, they are often worse than the worn-out battery you're replacing. Get batteries from a reliable retailer; they should have blue/green/black cables, not red/white/black.

Note on sourcing: It's very hard to find non chinky batteries now. Their quality varies hugely. Buy a battery from somewhere you can get a refund from in case the battery is terrible.

Note: 3.0 trackers actually use the same battery, but I don't have one to open so the screw layout/count might be different.

Tools needed: Screwdriver with a TORX T5 bit. (0.5mm bit). And a sharp knife. And some tweezers. 

1. Find the screws in the back. There are '''THREE'''. See the image: the cutouts are where the two main ones are and the third is under the flap here. 

[[File:Screw locations.jpg|500px|alt=screw_locations.jpg|screw_locations.jpg]][[File:Screw locations2.jpg|500px|frameless]]

2. Pop off the top cover

[[File:Top cover popoff.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

3. There is ANOTHER SCREW holding on the circuitry core, unscrew that, then peel open the arms a bit and wiggle the core out. It's easiest to wiggle the LED prong out last because there's a little extra tab on that bit.CAREFUL with the DIODES! They stick out a bit and get caught by the casing.

[[File:One screw.jpg|500px|frameless|none]][[File:Peel open.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

4. There is a ribbon cable attaching the main core to the base. It's easier to ''unscrew'' the little port area attached to the base than fuck with ribbon cables. There's 4 screws, one is covered with a bit of tape, make sure to keep hold of that tape and recover when rebuilding.

[[File:Ribbon cable.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

5. Flip the core over and unscrew the 3 screws holding the circuitry on, and unplug the battery. The plug goes in from the top rather than sliding in. (This is an easier alternative to unplugging the ribbon cables; I did that once and it SUCKS ASS getting them back in). 

[[File:Unscrewandunplug.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

6. you can unfold the ribbon cable sections to get access to the battery. There's a little plastic guard, remove that. Then GENTLY lever out the battery. It's glued in; DO NOT PIERCE THE BATTERY. 

[[File:Guard battery 1.jpg|500px|frameless|none]][[File:Lever battery 2.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

[[File:Battery out.jpg|500px|frameless|none]]

7. Put the new battery in and basically do the stuff above but in reverse order:

* Refold the circuitry back together; screw in then plug in the battery. 
* Screw the loose charging port bit into the base of the tracker (remember the bit of tape!). Pay attention to rotation; the core is not rotationally symmetric. (one prong has an LED, this led prong should go in the same section as the microusb port)
* Put the circuitry core back in the base; put the LED prong in first and slide the rest down into the base. Expand the legs by pulling the base legs apart to slip the case over the diodes; be careful not to knock one off! They're not super fragile but don't risk it.
* Remember the one screw that attaches the core to the base. 
* Put the top cover on. It is also not rotationally symmetric; it should just snap on though, no order needed.
* Screw the three base screws back in. Don't tighten too hard; you can over torque and pull the metal threading bit out of the housing. It's fixable but it's more work.
* done!